In seek of both adventure and emotional comfort from mother N, flights to Cairns were an impulsive yet intuitive purchase that came at the peril of a shit day. Financially it could be deemed a dumb move at 2am—but that aside it was an absolute conquest. No agenda, no timeline, no knowledge or expectations. These are the things that consume me the most when it comes to travel, because I love the challenge of building a whimsy itinerary knowing that my experiences will be completely untainted by anyone else’s influence.
For some background, Cairns is the only place in the world where two World Heritage Sites meet. Tourists and locals are dangerously free to get lost in the allure and tranquillity of some of the ocean’s most captivating reef, in addition to the pure enchantment of the lush, untamed vegetation that’s a casual 180 million years old. Looking up into the canopies made of fan palms is like staring through a mosaic window, perfectly mis-matched with just enough light seeping in to illuminate your path with fluorescent hues of green, and give you a sweeeeet little hit of vitamin D.
This brings me to one of my favourite little learnings of the trip, one which also can be admired from a metaphorical standpoint. I’m talking about Epiphytes, which are plants that survive without roots in the ground. They choose a host tree and sustain themselves by absorbing its nutrients and growing towards the sunlight (you see what I’m getting at here).
It was only fitting that I’d booked accommodation in a beautiful B&B called the ‘The Epiphyte’ in the lower Daintree, which was run by the kindest intellect who was truly the walking metaphor of an Epiphyte. Matt, who coincidentally grew up down the road from me in South Aus, was the kind of legend you hope to stumble across on solo travels. Curious enough to incite good table conversation and a complete local muse when it came to offering information about the Daintree and places to visit. And the best part—his fashion sense was a mild nod to the hippy dippy psychedelic era when loose curls and short shorts were it.
Every day I stayed there new faces would come and go while on their own ventures, and it’s pretty amazing how lovely and inviting people can be when you’re open to having a yarn. Testament to this was walking away with an accumulation of names and places to stay when travelling abroad. Every morning a communal brekky out on the front porch would entail exotic fruits with names that sound made up, homemade jams from the church ladies at the market (how wholesome), and fresh coffee. A combination that is the perfect recipe for a bright eyed and bushy tailed approach to even the grey days.
To keep it short and sweet, I’ll provide a little highlight reel of a few of the places and activities that were both recommended and stumbled across.
Diving – One of the main incentives behind choosing North Queensland was to have a squiz at what the Great Barrier Reef had to offer. With lots of operators and few rules and regs, it was bitter sweet knowing that what I saw was only a mere morsel of what the reef could be. Coral is incredibly sensitive (lol same) to changes in its environment, and it’s confronting to read reports that detail how easy it is for Marine ecosystems to be wiped out through climate change and human interference. But in light of that, regeneration can and does occur, and there’s been a somewhat good return rate in the north and central areas of the reef.
In the way of premium viewing, a series of three dives introduced me to an abundance of Potato Cod, Butterfly Fish, Parrotfish, Coral Trout and big ugly Wrasse that look at you like you’ve just stolen their wallet. It was a peaceful frenzy of characters making their way through vibrant coral cities that showcased enough life and animation of their own to keep you captivated.
It’s an absolute bloody wonderland down there, and after sitting with an influx of white faced kids on their school holidays spewing either side of me, I was stoked our small group of divers could have it to ourselves on the day. A day trip out of Port Dougie on Calypso Charters was exactly what the doctor ordered.
Boardwalks – Then there’s the aimless strolls through the forests, accommodated by boardwalks that wind you through more species of plant life than you can comprehend. You’d half expect fairies to pop out and start ditching berries at you, but it was just the midgees that nailed me instead.
Having spent a lot of time in the Kimberley which is Mangrove central, it was also interesting to learn how vital they also were to the health of the Daintree and its integrated water streams. Madja Boardwalk and Dubiji Boardwalk are two which contrast to showcase the diversity of vegetation that thrives close to shore, versus inland botanicals.
Beaches – Are you KIDDING I literally struggled to process how beautiful the beaches in Cairns were. Turquoise waters hugged in by mountains of tropical plant life are simply unmatched when it comes to natural beauty, but of course the waters are also eerily dangerous with sightings of salt water crocs which means resisting the urge to swim.
On an average walk you’re kicking around fallen coconuts, following snake tracks and stumbling across little made-made huts and havens where you can sit and stare at absolutely nothing (how good). Cow Bay, South Noah Beach, Myall Beach and Thornton Beach are a few worth highlighting on the map, each with their own unique points of difference. One thing they do share is the utopian seduction Cairns is renowned for.
Creeks and waterholes – Even in the busy holiday periods, choosing your timing wisely can lead you to feel like you’re the first person to ever swim in these springs. You can always hear the sound of fresh running water, little fish circle your feet, and the forest looks like it’s never short of thriving. Emmagen Creek was a particular favourite, with a large-bodied emerald pool, a rope to swing from and tree roots big enough to curl up in for a nap. Mason’s Swimming Hole and of course the lovely creek in the backyard of my B&B were also huge highlights of the trip.
Wildlife – A wildlife cruise down the Daintree River is a cool way to meet some of the local salties, which are sadly under threat by the state government’s facilitation of a cull. As croc attacks aren’t currently related to overpopulation, petitions have been put in place against the act and signing is encouraged by local operators. I jumped on a cruise with Solar Whisper which was an epic way to learn more about creatures that inhabit the local waters. In terms of land animals, I was bloody relieved that I didn’t come face to face with any of the famed and illusive dinosaur-toed FREAKS that tourists froth over so much (Cassowaries).
Food – the Daintree is a ferry ride away from your standard Coles or Woolies, which forces you to venture out and enjoy meals that incorporate the region’s delicious local produce. Whether you prefer home-style or high end, there are dining options that stretch all the way up Cape Tribulation Road; tucked away and run by the loveliest locals that engage with tourists as though they’ve known you a lifetime. If I could recommend anything it would definitely be the region’s two famed ice cream shops: Daintree Ice Cream Company and Floravilla. A stop off at either one is an easy way to get a grin going while you sit cross-legged on the beach with a sunburnt schnoz. Link Haven, Crocodylus Lodge and the stunning Thornton Beach Cafe deserve a mention also!
The Daintree definitely introduced a new aspect of sustainable living. The vast majority of homes and businesses operate via fresh Daintree rainwater, generate their own electricity, and encourage proper recycling habits to minimise their annual landfill production. It incites a whole new appreciation for the availability of every day resources and demonstrates how much the locals value where they live.
If you’re looking for a place to learn, ignite curiosity and soothe the blues that come with everyday life, North Queensland is it. Without sounding too cliche I can’t help but liken the cosiness of the forest to getting wrapped up in a big green leafy blanket, and there’s enough of it to be explored to keep you going back for more.
