After a 260km feat countering strong south-easterly winds that create a real Barry Crocker of a time for the motion-sick prone, the Rowley Shoals quickly wins its worth by demonstrating the complete wonder and extravagance of the Indian Ocean.
Unless you’re heavily involved in the diving scene—and even then—there’s a chance the Rowley Shoals doesn’t have a familiar ring. However, the landscapes are comparable in beauty to its more popular counterparts like Ningaloo and The Great Barrier Reef.
In short, the Rowley Shoals is a thriving marine park located off the northwestern Australian coast; both protected and managed by the government. It’s isolation leaves it unpopulated by human kind and recreational fishing activity is limited to preserve the vast ecosystem that inhabits its waters. These factors combined mark it on the map as an exceptionally healthy and well-sustained park. It’s a biologist’s dream, a diver’s utopia, and an absolute Mermaid’s haven for those trying to cheat the system and grow a pair of gills (me).
The underwater flora and fauna exceeded anything my imagination is capable of creating, topped off by the rugged undertone of the famed Kimberley tidal movements and general sea state that dictate the daily itinerary. Such varying conditions require close observation of the wind, current, swell and overall visibility to maximise the experience for divers. A good skipper and dive master are invaluable here, so fortunately ours are ripper.
These waters home hundreds of tropical fish species, sharks, dolphins, turtles, manta rays—the whole bit. Equally as impressive is the assortment of coral (over 200 species); intertwining with one another to create colourful, festive landscapes that pave the way for the most magical snorkelling and diving experience in Australia.
As opposed to anchoring which could pose damage to the reef below, a number of moorings (for both public and private use) have been scattered throughout the park, which is made up of three atolls that sit on the edge of Australia’s continental shelf. These being Clerke Reef, Imperiouse Reef, and the most North-Easterly point known as Mermaid Reef. Mermaid Reef is legally recognised as its own marine park and is owned by The Commonwealth, which is due to the absence of any exposed land. The other two atolls that make up the Shoals both home islands deemed Western Australian land.
Just few of the noteworthy species that live in abundance include animated-looking parrot fish, precariously cruisy blacktip reef sharks, huge schools of trevally, ugly (but stunning) humphead maori wrasse, fluorescent spotted coral trout, and various species of snapper that love to make you feel awkward by holding their ogling stare just a second too long.
A real highlight is the narrow channels that flow throughout the Rowley Shoals. Hugged in by coral edifice, the current sweeps you through the channel while you effortlessly observe the surrounding scenes, float above monstrous clams and duck dive to keep up with the speed of the reefies.
The water itself is almost hard to comprehend. Luminous aqua blue lagoons would average 27 degrees, with clarity in excess of 40 metres on the best days. Tame winds led to countless afternoons that can only be described as glass-bombs, forcing a beer in your hand as the impact of a busy day in the salt and the sun drags you straight down to relaxation station.
For someone that only became recently qualified, scuba diving at the Shoals meant starting from the top—preparing me for a lifetime of underwater activity that’ll probably come in sub-par. However, it also sparked interest in a hobby that offers lifelong education, travel prospects, and instilled an even greater appreciation for what big blue is really about.
Like any sanctuary zone, and a general message we should apply to most environments we visit, it’s important to protect and preserve the Rowley Shoals by leaving the coral infrastructure and marine life the bloody hell alone. The good stuff will stay with you anyway! But with that said, it’s an essential addition to any bucket-list if the enchantment of western waters already has you captured.
Photos by Tash Allen & Daniel (Paddles) Brown
Vessel featured: Diversity II
